After a quiet ride with the owner and operator of Peponi in his Land Rover, we got dropped off at the Tanga bus station. If I never have to take a bus (or grace a bus station) in Tanzania again, I don't think I'd be too devastated. The guy who shuffled us into the dalla dalla somehow recognized us and offered us another ride and followed us in our circle around the bus station until we booked our tickets.
We did a short circle around Tanga, in desperate search of the ice cream parlor. Of course, we were followed for literally 2 km by a guy who had requested a cig. Do I look like a smoker? Finally, after lots of angry attempts to get rid of the guy I yelled Niecha! (Leave me!) at him. We found refuge from the heat and the pesky follower in another ice cream parlor that from what I could tell hadn't opened yet for the day.
Warning: I'm about to complain about another sweaty bus ride. We were called to board the bus, along with everyone else sitting in the back two rows. B's backpack didn't fit in the overhead compartment and neither did mine. Sweaty with pushy Tanzanians anxious to sit in their seats all around, I managed to squeeze mine under the seat. Unluckily for B she sat with hers on lap for almost the entire trip.
Ah...finally in Dar! Again, mean and hypoglycemic we made a quick taxi drive over to Sweet Eazy for happy hour and overpriced vegetable stir fry. The calamari made my day but also made me miss DC and my usual calamari consuming companion. (Hope you're reading this Gatto)
Then after a much needed boost in my blood sugar levels it was out to the airport to fetch Little Mango, the newest American arrival in Tanzania. Another great night and the Swiss Garden Hotel, Nutella crepes at Seacliff Village, and another thrilling trip to Shoppers Supermarket. Also picked up North of South and The Yiddish Policeman's Union at A Novel Idea. Set me back 40 bucks but worth.
Back to Morogoro!
Showing posts with label Dar es Salaam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dar es Salaam. Show all posts
Tuesday, July 29
Sunday, June 29
Oh, Kipepeo
T-Man suggested that we check out Kipepeo--a private beach on the South coast of Dar es Salaam. I can't even describe how beautiful Kipepeo--which means butterfly in Swahili--is. After a lugging around my backpack in the Dar heat all day, all I wanted to do was jump in the turquoise Indian Ocean. We checked in and went over to Bungalow No. 21 and did the usual inspection. Let's just say it passed with flying colors. The bungalow--thatched roof and all--had a Swiss Family Robinson feel to it and the balcony with a hammock looked out to a stunning view of the Indian Ocean. Apparently they were inspired by the mud huts built in surrounding villages, giving them a uniquely African feel. I certainly didn't feel like I was in Africa though!
Not long after checking in I was in the crystal-clear water. You could see straight down to the bottom! The water for refreshing--not freezing! Forget Hawaii...my new beach destination of choice is in Tanzania! Here's the beach around sunset time, just as we were sitting down to dinner. (I didn't even edit this picture...)
The Swahili word for relax is poa, and that is just what I did on Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning. More pictures that will probably make you more jealous are here.
Not long after checking in I was in the crystal-clear water. You could see straight down to the bottom! The water for refreshing--not freezing! Forget Hawaii...my new beach destination of choice is in Tanzania! Here's the beach around sunset time, just as we were sitting down to dinner. (I didn't even edit this picture...)
The Swahili word for relax is poa, and that is just what I did on Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning. More pictures that will probably make you more jealous are here.
Saturday, June 28
Day Two of the Dar Adventure
A wake-up call wasn't necessary; the call to mosque at what seemed like six o'clock in the morning was good enough for me. Headed down to the breakfast at the hotel and was delighted that the scrambled eggs and toast were actually good, not just edible! We got an early start to the Village Museum. For $2--yes, we paid in US dollars, which is funny considering the national currency is the Tanzania shilling--we got to explore different dwellings of the many tribes of Tanzania. Museum fatigue set in after about half an hour. The bathroom break on the way out of the museum was probably the better cultural experience.
Then the bus ride. We weren't 100 percent sure how to get to our next stop--Mwenge Market--and the museum cashier was very nice but not helpful. We hopped on a bus with Mwenge on the front and crossed our fingers. Less than 50 cents later we were in a chaotic bus stop. We got ripped off by one of the taxi drivers who charged us TSh 2,250 to get the Market that was about a three second taxi drive away.
Mwenge Market was really cool. Lots of Masai crafts, tinga-tingas, kangas...all that stuff Dad used to bring home from his trips from Africa. As we walked around, every shop keeper was trying to get us to go in..."Karibu. You're welcome Miss." "Looking is free! I'll give you a good price." All in all though I was surprised at how low-key it all was. I didn't want to get a whole lot of stuff because I knew I would have to drag it around for another day and a half but I'll definitely go back on my way home. Will got two really cool tribal masks.
For lunch we headed over to Seacliff Village, a super touristy area with a sort of food court area, a supermarket--not as super as Shoppers--and a bookstore with English books. Once you sit down at one of the tables, women accost you with menus for wraps, pizza, Subway (!), French, Indian. Inside Epid'or, the French bakery, I actually forgot I was in Africa! The crepes with Nutella and bananas were AWESOME as was the pizza with pineapple (my new favorite). It was a nice break from the continuous culture shock. The bathrooms even had automatic soap dispensers. I had almost forgotten those existed! It really is the small things in life.
After a taxi ride along the coast and past the President's residence, we made it to the ferry dock, which anything but lush. For TSh 100 each (9 cents), we took a five minute ferry ride cut the cost of taxis. Taxis in Dar are expensive (usually at least 6,000 but sometimes as much as 12,000). Our taxi driver on the other side was a crazy. He was really jamming out and fast was definitely his speed of choice. He tried to convince us he was a chief and that we should pay him extra. And finally, Kipepeo!
Then the bus ride. We weren't 100 percent sure how to get to our next stop--Mwenge Market--and the museum cashier was very nice but not helpful. We hopped on a bus with Mwenge on the front and crossed our fingers. Less than 50 cents later we were in a chaotic bus stop. We got ripped off by one of the taxi drivers who charged us TSh 2,250 to get the Market that was about a three second taxi drive away.
Mwenge Market was really cool. Lots of Masai crafts, tinga-tingas, kangas...all that stuff Dad used to bring home from his trips from Africa. As we walked around, every shop keeper was trying to get us to go in..."Karibu. You're welcome Miss." "Looking is free! I'll give you a good price." All in all though I was surprised at how low-key it all was. I didn't want to get a whole lot of stuff because I knew I would have to drag it around for another day and a half but I'll definitely go back on my way home. Will got two really cool tribal masks.
For lunch we headed over to Seacliff Village, a super touristy area with a sort of food court area, a supermarket--not as super as Shoppers--and a bookstore with English books. Once you sit down at one of the tables, women accost you with menus for wraps, pizza, Subway (!), French, Indian. Inside Epid'or, the French bakery, I actually forgot I was in Africa! The crepes with Nutella and bananas were AWESOME as was the pizza with pineapple (my new favorite). It was a nice break from the continuous culture shock. The bathrooms even had automatic soap dispensers. I had almost forgotten those existed! It really is the small things in life.
After a taxi ride along the coast and past the President's residence, we made it to the ferry dock, which anything but lush. For TSh 100 each (9 cents), we took a five minute ferry ride cut the cost of taxis. Taxis in Dar are expensive (usually at least 6,000 but sometimes as much as 12,000). Our taxi driver on the other side was a crazy. He was really jamming out and fast was definitely his speed of choice. He tried to convince us he was a chief and that we should pay him extra. And finally, Kipepeo!
Friday, June 27
SUPERmarket and Addis in Dar
Friday night was pretty much pure ecstasy in Dar. Will and I headed over to Shopper's Plaza. We got out of the taxi and I was literally mesmerized by Shoppers Supermarket. It's amazing how entertaining a grocery store can become after three weeks shopping in a mini-mart sized store. Will and I literally went down every aisle! Some items were inexpensive but others were outrageously priced. Cereal was about TSh 9,000 (somewhere around $8) but it was still nice to see Fruit Loops and Special K in the aisle.
After about an hour of gawking, Will and I headed to Addis in Dar, an Ethiopian restaurant. As soon as I walked in, I knew I was really in for a treat. We ventured upstairs and had a seat among ex-pats and other tourists. The atmosphere was beautiful...the smells, candles, and everyone was really relaxed. Tej--honey wine--came highly recommended and for good reason! The food was amazing and I thought they were going to have to roll me out of there. The meal ended with some of the best tea I have ever had. It was served with popcorn which seems like a weird combination but in actuality is FANtastic. Not a cheap dinner but well worth it! This blog certainly got it right!
Travel Agent Sarah did pretty well for Day 1 in Dar!
After about an hour of gawking, Will and I headed to Addis in Dar, an Ethiopian restaurant. As soon as I walked in, I knew I was really in for a treat. We ventured upstairs and had a seat among ex-pats and other tourists. The atmosphere was beautiful...the smells, candles, and everyone was really relaxed. Tej--honey wine--came highly recommended and for good reason! The food was amazing and I thought they were going to have to roll me out of there. The meal ended with some of the best tea I have ever had. It was served with popcorn which seems like a weird combination but in actuality is FANtastic. Not a cheap dinner but well worth it! This blog certainly got it right!
Travel Agent Sarah did pretty well for Day 1 in Dar!
Off to Dar!
After lots of planning and packing, I met Will in downtown Morogoro with "the list" of hotels and sights I had planned out for the weekend. I re-packed everything from the hostel so that I wouldn't have to pay for it while I was away for the weekend but, of course, I waited until the day-of to pack everything up. Like fitting everything but a weekend's worth of clothes into the not-so-large backpack, the bus stop was chaos. Before we even got out of the taxi people were trying to push us towards one bus or another. "Dar? Dar?" Luckily Will knew the way to the bus we wanted (Hood) and we paid TSh 5,000 (less than $5) and walked on. People were banging on the windows trying to get us to cashews, oranges, water, anything they could sell before the mzungus left. The bus ride was surprisingly short and the ventilation was great.
We arrived in Dar in the late afternoon and headed straight for our hotel (the Starlight). After sitting in the classic Dar traffic, we finally arrived at our hotel and settled in (read: checking out all the channels on the television and inspecting the bathroom). Then we walked around the market a block away. Located in the predominantly Muslim neighborhood, we found ourselves surrounded by jewelry shops but no markets; everything was closing when we got there around six. Will got some weird fruit that I can't remember the name of and we walked through a disgustingly smelly part of the market that almost made me gag. That was not on "the list." Let the adventure begin!
We arrived in Dar in the late afternoon and headed straight for our hotel (the Starlight). After sitting in the classic Dar traffic, we finally arrived at our hotel and settled in (read: checking out all the channels on the television and inspecting the bathroom). Then we walked around the market a block away. Located in the predominantly Muslim neighborhood, we found ourselves surrounded by jewelry shops but no markets; everything was closing when we got there around six. Will got some weird fruit that I can't remember the name of and we walked through a disgustingly smelly part of the market that almost made me gag. That was not on "the list." Let the adventure begin!
Saturday, May 31
Dar to Morogoro
After arriving in Dar es Salaam (which everyone here just calls Dar) and collecting my baggage (which wasn't lost, hurray!), I was met by a taxi to take me to the Swiss Garden Hotel. Dar is pretty dirty and there are a lot of beggars who come up to the windows of the car selling randoms things like car mats and cashews. The only other white person I saw on the half hour drive to the hotel was what looked like a businessman driving a Mercedes. The hotel was very nice and everyone was extremely helpful. The orange juice I had while checking in was probably the best I've ever had, just a touch of mango--amazing! I was a big fan of the mosquito net which looked more like a canopy. Below is one angle. (Notice Dennis Bear and the amazing orange juice on the table.)
I had dinner at the hotel with a German anthropologist studying AIDS activism who had been at the hotel for 3 weeks already. She was really helpful and recommended that I take a trip to Zanzibar, among a number of other adventures. I'm not sure how much time I'm going to have to travel but she was certainly an extremely helpful single-serving friend.
I left early this morning to catch a bus to Morogoro. At least five of the people I have met have said Morogoro is their home. I was the only tourist in the bus station, I may venture to say that I was also the only person who spoke English. A family of German tourists got on the bus at the second stop with two children that could not have been older than four. A small Tanzania girl (mschina) sat next to me, stared and smiled for the first ten minutes. I wasn't really sure what to do, then she pulled out about 15 photographs and showed them to me. Just nod and smile. Here's a picture out the window of the bus while still in Dar es Salaam. I think we spent more time getting through traffic in Dar than actually moving towards Morogoro. The smog certainly isn't as bad as LA!
Morogoro is really pretty and I'm so happy to finally be here. Everything is so lush and the greenery is amazing. This really nice guy--who I'll give the nickname T-Man--met me at the bus station in Morogoro and helped me check into the hostel. While the attendant speaks very little English, the accommodations are nice and very safe. I have my own bathroom and there is a common room where I can imagine watching many a soccer game. The hostel is on-campus and very near to town.
After checking in, I followed T-Man to the lab and the hospital. Right now I'm in the "containers" which are literally shipping containers that they've turned into offices and study spaces for the graduate students. The internet connection is good, even good enough to g-chat with the original Poopie-pants (I told you I'd give you a shout-out). The graduate student that I'm going to be working with is SUPER nice--let's call her Kitty. She lives right down the street from me and speaks very good English. She has two girls or waschina (5 and 2) who I am really excited to meet. Tomorrow we'll have lunch together. Later tonight I'm heading to dinner in town with another graduate student and T-Man, possibly some others. If I don't crash immediately following I'm going to work on the Kiswahili. Since I've traded Stella McCartney for OFF! mosquito repellent, I'm looking forward to a shower, however short and cold it might be.
I had dinner at the hotel with a German anthropologist studying AIDS activism who had been at the hotel for 3 weeks already. She was really helpful and recommended that I take a trip to Zanzibar, among a number of other adventures. I'm not sure how much time I'm going to have to travel but she was certainly an extremely helpful single-serving friend.
I left early this morning to catch a bus to Morogoro. At least five of the people I have met have said Morogoro is their home. I was the only tourist in the bus station, I may venture to say that I was also the only person who spoke English. A family of German tourists got on the bus at the second stop with two children that could not have been older than four. A small Tanzania girl (mschina) sat next to me, stared and smiled for the first ten minutes. I wasn't really sure what to do, then she pulled out about 15 photographs and showed them to me. Just nod and smile. Here's a picture out the window of the bus while still in Dar es Salaam. I think we spent more time getting through traffic in Dar than actually moving towards Morogoro. The smog certainly isn't as bad as LA!
Morogoro is really pretty and I'm so happy to finally be here. Everything is so lush and the greenery is amazing. This really nice guy--who I'll give the nickname T-Man--met me at the bus station in Morogoro and helped me check into the hostel. While the attendant speaks very little English, the accommodations are nice and very safe. I have my own bathroom and there is a common room where I can imagine watching many a soccer game. The hostel is on-campus and very near to town.
After checking in, I followed T-Man to the lab and the hospital. Right now I'm in the "containers" which are literally shipping containers that they've turned into offices and study spaces for the graduate students. The internet connection is good, even good enough to g-chat with the original Poopie-pants (I told you I'd give you a shout-out). The graduate student that I'm going to be working with is SUPER nice--let's call her Kitty. She lives right down the street from me and speaks very good English. She has two girls or waschina (5 and 2) who I am really excited to meet. Tomorrow we'll have lunch together. Later tonight I'm heading to dinner in town with another graduate student and T-Man, possibly some others. If I don't crash immediately following I'm going to work on the Kiswahili. Since I've traded Stella McCartney for OFF! mosquito repellent, I'm looking forward to a shower, however short and cold it might be.
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